Want to quickly experience Tokyo’s nostalgic shitamachi atmosphere? Sugamo is definitely the top choice! Known as “Harajuku for grandmas,” this area is not only budget-friendly but also extremely convenient for transportation. This guide fully covers the must-visit highlights of Sugamo’s Jizo-dori Shopping Street, popular food worth lining up for, unique souvenirs, affordable accommodation recommendations, transportation to Sugamo, and tips for enjoying its ennichi festival days, helping you explore Sugamo with ease!
Located in Toshima City, Tokyo, Sugamo is a nostalgic strolling neighborhood centered around Sugamo Jizo-dori Shopping Street. It is also known as “Harajuku for grandmas.” Prices here are very affordable, and the area is full of warm shitamachi hospitality. Koganji Temple’s “Washing Kannon,” delicious shio daifuku, and lucky red underwear are all iconic specialties that immediately bring Sugamo to mind. Travelers who enjoy slowing down, experiencing old-school everyday Tokyo, and tasting affordable local food should definitely make time to visit Sugamo!
Sugamo, Kamata, Koenji, and many other areas where long-time Tokyo residents live are surprisingly affordable and full of human warmth. If you want to take a budget backpacking trip focused on local experiences, you should visit these “Tokyo shitamachi” neighborhoods below!
Sugamo Transportation Guide
Routes to Sugamo Station
Sugamo was a town along the Nakasendo, a major road during the Edo period. Today, Sugamo Station is located on the JR Yamanote Line, one of Tokyo’s most important transportation arteries. You can reach it directly from major stations such as Ikebukuro, Shinjuku, and Ueno without transfers, making access extremely convenient. In addition to the JR Yamanote Line, you can also take the Toei Mita Line to Sugamo. This makes it an excellent choice both as a sightseeing destination and as a base for accommodation during an independent trip to Tokyo.
From Major Tokyo Stations to Sugamo
| Departure Point | Travel Time | Fare |
|---|---|---|
| Ikebukuro | Approx. 3 minutes | Approx. 160 yen |
| Shinjuku | Approx. 13 minutes | Approx. 210 yen |
| Ueno | Approx. 10 minutes | Approx. 200 yen |
From Haneda and Narita Airports to Sugamo
| Departure Point | Route | Travel Time | Fare |
|---|---|---|---|
| Narita Airport | Keisei Skyliner → Nippori Station → JR Yamanote Line → Sugamo Station | Approx. 55 minutes | Approx. 2,780 yen |
| Haneda Airport | Tokyo Monorail → Hamamatsucho Station → JR Yamanote Line → Sugamo Station | Approx. 55 minutes | Approx. 780 yen |
| Keikyu Limited Express → via Sengakuji → Mita Station → Toei Mita Line → Sugamo Station | Approx. 55 minutes | Approx. 635 yen |
※The above fares and travel times are for reference only. Please check the latest official announcements for each route.
If you want to visit Sugamo’s liveliest area, Jizo-dori Shopping Street, you can actually take the streetcar “Toden Arakawa Line” to Koshinzuka Station in addition to using Sugamo Station. From there, it is only a short walk to the other entrance of the shopping street, allowing you to begin your Sugamo stroll right away. To learn how to ride the Toden Arakawa Line and discover other interesting attractions along the route, check out the article below!
Recommended Attractions in Sugamo
Sugamo Jizo-dori Shopping Street
Sugamo Jizo-dori Shopping Street, which stretches about 780 meters, is one of the best-preserved Showa-style shopping streets in central Tokyo and has prospered since the Edo period. The two ends of the shopping street conveniently connect JR Sugamo Station and Koshinzuka Station on the Toden Arakawa Line. Along the way, there are about 170 distinctive shops. Old-fashioned shio daifuku and lucky red underwear are the signature must-buy souvenirs of this shopping street!
Address: Around 4-22-8 Sugamo, Toshima-ku, Tokyo, extending north toward the Koshinzuka area
Business Hours: Approx. 10:00–18:00 ※Varies by shop
Access: Approx. 5-minute walk from Sugamo Station; approx. 2-minute walk from Koshinzuka Station on the Toden Arakawa Line
Tokyo often gives people the impression of being a cold and distant city, but once you step into the local shopping streets that support the daily lives of old Tokyo residents, you will find that all the lively warmth and human touch are concentrated here! There are not only many comforting street snacks and affordable daily goods, but also great-value drugstores that travelers love. If you enjoy this kind of shopping street atmosphere, let’s take a look at other Tokyo shopping streets worth making a special trip to visit besides Sugamo!
Sugamo Koganji Temple
Koganji Temple was founded in Yushima in 1596, the first year of the Keicho era, and later moved to its current location in Sugamo in 1891, the 24th year of the Meiji era. The principal image enshrined here is a hidden Buddhist statue known as Togenuki Jizo, or “the thorn-removing Jizo.” The main image is generally not open to the public, but worshippers can purchase omikage protective charms and apply them to affected areas while praying for recovery. The most popular worship spot on the temple grounds is the “Washing Kannon” (Arai Kannon): visitors pour water over the Kannon statue and then wipe the part corresponding to their own physical ailment with a cloth, praying for healing.
Address: 3-35-2 Sugamo, Toshima-ku, Tokyo
Opening Hours: 6:00–17:00 (until 20:00 on the four monthly ennichi days)
Access: Approx. 5-minute walk from Sugamo Station
Wiping cloth: 100 yen ※You may also bring your own
Sugamo Shinshoji Temple
Shinshoji Temple is located near the entrance of Jizo-dori Shopping Street on the Sugamo Station side, making it the first photo spot when entering the shopping street. The temple enshrines one of the historic “Edo Six Jizo.” Its enormous bronze seated statue of Jizo Bodhisattva is highly impressive, quietly protecting travelers and local residents passing through the area. It is an important center of faith in the Sugamo area.
Address: 3-21-21 Sugamo, Toshima-ku, Tokyo
Opening Hours: 9:00–17:00
Access: Approx. 5-minute walk from JR Sugamo Station or the Toden Arakawa Line Sugamo stop
Sugamo Koshinzuka (Sarutahiko Okami Koshindo)
Sugamo Koshinzuka is located beside the other entrance of Jizo-dori Shopping Street and is a historic site established in 1502. It mainly enshrines Sarutahiko Okami, known as the deity of travel and guidance. Since the Edo period, it has been an important place of worship where travelers passing along the Nakasendo prayed for safe journeys. Today, it remains a spiritually revered shrine to visit after exploring the shopping street.
Address: 4-35 Sugamo, Toshima-ku, Tokyo
Opening Hours: Open for worship 24 hours
Access: Approx. 1-minute walk from Koshinzuka Station on the Toden Arakawa Line
Recommended Food in Sugamo
Must-Try Food on Sugamo Shopping Street
Konaya
Sugamo Main Store: Curry Udon
Founded in 1983, Konaya pioneered a new style of curry udon broth. Traditional curry udon creates its thick curry texture through starch-based thickening, while Konaya’s broth is made with a curry sauce simmered from large amounts of fresh vegetables and fruits plus multiple spices. It is then combined with seafood-based dashi made from bonito flakes and Japanese seasonings, creating a uniquely smooth and creamy broth. Paired with slippery, chewy udon noodles, the flavor is spicy yet sweet, making it a classic must-try dish in Sugamo.
Address: 3-37-1 Sugamo, Toshima-ku, Tokyo
Business Hours: Weekdays 11:00–16:30; Saturdays, Sundays, and Holidays 11:00–18:30; closed on Tuesdays
Access: Approx. 6-minute walk from Sugamo Station
Sugamo Tokiwa Shokudo
Showa-Style Set Meals
Sugamo Tokiwa Shokudo is a long-established teishoku restaurant founded in 1964. It has multiple branches around Sugamo and attracts nearly one thousand customers every day! The meals are known for generous portions at affordable prices, and the restaurant preserves the warm atmosphere of a Showa-era dining hall. Its ordering style lets customers choose a dish and add an upgraded set meal for an additional fee. Golden, crispy fried shrimp and fresh, delicious sashimi are among the restaurant’s most popular signature dishes.
Sugamo Jizo-dori Tokiwa Shokudo Main Store
Address: 3-14-20 Sugamo, Toshima-ku, Tokyo
Business Hours: 10:00–22:00
Access: Approx. 6-minute walk from Sugamo Station
Sugamo Tokiwa Shokudo Ekimae Branch
Address: 3-28-8 Sugamo, Toshima-ku, Tokyo
Business Hours: 10:00–22:00
Access: Approx. 1-minute walk from Sugamo Station
Sugamo Tokiwa Shokudo Koshinzuka Branch
Address: 4-33-2 Sugamo, Toshima-ku, Tokyo
Business Hours: 10:00–22:00; closed on Wednesdays
Access: Approx. 2-minute walk from Koshinzuka Station on the Toden Arakawa Line
Ganso Sennari Monaka Sugamo Branch
Freshly Grilled Dorayaki
Ganso Sennari Monaka is a popular wagashi shop located in front of the entrance to Jizo-dori Shopping Street and has been featured on several television programs. Its signature item is the wonderfully fragrant “freshly grilled dorayaki.” The pancakes are soft and fluffy, and you can choose from classic smooth red bean paste, chunky red bean filling, or the tempting red bean butter flavor. The shop also thoughtfully provides complimentary tea. Because it is extremely popular, it often sells out early, so it is recommended to visit as early as possible!
Address: 3-28-8 Sugamo, Toshima-ku, Tokyo
Business Hours: 10:00–18:00
Access: Approx. 2-minute walk from Sugamo Station
Yatsumeya Nishimura: Unagi Rice
Hidden inside Jizo-dori Shopping Street, Yatsumeya Nishimura is a long-established eel restaurant founded in the late Taisho period. The shop preserves traditional slow charcoal-grilling techniques and pairs them with a rich secret sauce passed down through generations. The grilled eel has a lightly charred exterior and plump, tender flesh. The restaurant does not accept reservations on weekends, national holidays, or ennichi days. If you want to leisurely enjoy delicious eel, it is best to visit on a weekday.
Address: 3-34-2 Sugamo, Toshima-ku, Tokyo
Business Hours: 10:30–19:00 (LO 18:00)
Access: Approx. 3-minute walk from Sugamo Station
Must-Try Food Around Sugamo Station and Nishi-Sugamo Station
Shabushabu Tatsu Nishi-Sugamo Branch: Shabu-Shabu and Sukiyaki
Located in Nishi-Sugamo, Shabushabu Tatsu Nishi-Sugamo Branch became famous after appearing in the popular Japanese drama Solitary Gourmet. Its biggest highlight is that on weekday lunchtimes, you can enjoy a premium shabu-shabu or sukiyaki set meal starting from only 1,000 yen, with unlimited refills of rice and udon noodles. The value for money is outstanding, and food lovers should not miss this pilgrimage-worthy restaurant!
Address: 4-13-15 Nishi-Sugamo, Toshima-ku, Tokyo
Business Hours: 11:30–LO 13:30 / 17:00–LO 20:00; closed on Wednesdays and the second Sunday of each month
Access: Approx. 1-minute walk from Exit A2 of Nishi-Sugamo Station on the Toei Mita Line
Approx. 10-minute walk from Koshinzuka Station on the Toden Arakawa Line; approx. 5-minute walk from Shin-Koshinzuka Station
※Cash only
Kamo to Negi Sugamo: Duck Ramen
Kamo to Negi is a distinctive ramen shop located about a one-minute walk from JR Sugamo Station. Its signature broth is made with high-quality domestically raised Japanese duck and selected branded green onions. The duck broth is rich yet clean and not greasy. What makes Kamo to Negi especially unique is that it changes the variety of branded Japanese green onion used each day, adding different aromatic layers to the ramen.
Address: 1-11-4 Sugamo, Toshima-ku, Tokyo
Business Hours: 11:00–22:45 (closes when the soup runs out)
Access: Approx. 1-minute walk from Sugamo Station
※Cash only
Yakiniku Kongouen: Long-Established Yakiniku Restaurant
Founded in 1966, Kongouen is a long-established yakiniku restaurant and a local favorite for meat gatherings in Sugamo. It also offers excellent-value lunch set meals. For a first visit, recommended popular cuts include the tender and crisp premium beef tongue and kainomi, a flavorful cut with evenly distributed marbling and excellent texture.
Address: 2F Tsukamoto Shoji Building, 2-1-1 Sugamo, Toshima-ku, Tokyo
Business Hours: 11:00–4:00 the following day
Access: Approx. 1-minute walk from Sugamo Station
French Pound House: Strawberry Shortcake
Founded in 1986, the popular Western-style pastry shop French Pound House is famous for having “Japan’s No. 1 strawberry shortcake.” Its signature strawberry shortcake comes in two flavors: Blanc, featuring a refreshing fresh cream flavor, and Rouge, which adds a small amount of strawberry liqueur for extra aroma. The cakes often sell out early, so it is recommended to visit in advance. If the dine-in seats are full, you can also take the cake back to your hotel to enjoy.
Address: 1-4-4 Sugamo, Toshima-ku, Tokyo
Business Hours: Weekdays 11:00–19:00; Saturdays 10:30–19:00; Sundays 10:30–18:30
Access: Approx. 4-minute walk from Sugamo Station
※Cash only
Must-Buy Souvenirs in Sugamo
Sugamo Shio Daifuku “Ganso Shio Daifuku Mizuno”
Ganso Shio Daifuku Mizuno is a long-established shop founded in 1937 and is the birthplace of Sugamo’s specialty, shio daifuku. The soft, chewy mochi skin wraps around smooth red bean filling, while a subtle saltiness perfectly enhances the sweetness of the beans. The sweet-and-salty flavor is deeply memorable. On ennichi days, lines are much longer than usual, so if you want to avoid crowds, it is best to visit on a weekday.
Address: 3-33-3 Sugamo, Toshima-ku, Tokyo
Business Hours: 9:30–18:30
Access: Approx. 3-minute walk from Sugamo Station
Sugamo Red Underwear: “Maruji” Red Underwear Hall
When it comes to the most talked-about and representative souvenir from Sugamo, it has to be the bright red underwear! Maruji is a long-established clothing shop founded in 1952. In Japan, red symbolizes health, vitality, and longevity, so red underwear has become a popular gift for celebrating kanreki, the 60th birthday. In recent years, this unique lucky-item trend has also attracted many younger visitors and foreign tourists who come to take photos and buy it.
Address: 4-22-7 Sugamo, Toshima-ku, Tokyo
Business Hours: 10:00–17:45
Access: Approx. 7-minute walk from Sugamo Station
Sugamo Jizo Monaka “Shogetsudo”
Shogetsudo, a long-established wagashi shop located directly opposite Koganji Temple, is known for its adorable Jizo-shaped monaka. The crisp glutinous rice wafers are filled generously, with three flavors available: classic red bean, rich sesame, and fragrant matcha. It was also selected as one of the “Toshima Top 50 Specialties,” making it a highly representative Sugamo souvenir.
Address: 3-18-17 Sugamo, Toshima-ku, Tokyo
Business Hours: 9:00–18:00
Access: Approx. 5-minute walk from Sugamo Station
Sugamo Ennichi Flea Market and Event Guide
Sugamo’s ennichi festival days are held regularly on the 4th, 14th, and 24th of every month. On these days, both sides of Jizo-dori Shopping Street are filled with around 200 lively outdoor stalls selling everything from local snacks and household goods to secondhand clothing. In addition, on weekends in late June each year, Sugamo joins nearby shopping streets to hold the Sugamo Merchant Festival.
Overview of Ennichi Events in Different Seasons
| Ennichi Name | Season | Features |
|---|---|---|
| Dongara Market (Dongara-ichi) | Once in spring and once in autumn | Secondhand goods and general goods market |
| Morning Glory Market (Asagao-ichi) | Around early July | Sells various morning glory flowers |
| Summer Bon Dance (Noryo Bon Odori) | Around early August Obon season | Traditional Bon dance open to everyone |
| Children’s Ennichi (Summer Vacation Children’s Ennichi) | Around late August | Fun activities such as shooting games, ring toss, and shaved ice |
| Chrysanthemum Exhibition (Nakasendo Chrysanthemum Festival) | Autumn | Displays various chrysanthemums |
Suggested One-Day Sugamo Itinerary
Sugamo is an area with a strong sense of local daily life. Rather than rushing around to shop, it is better suited to strolling slowly and observing people’s interactions. For this sample one-day Sugamo itinerary, the focus is placed on Jizo-dori Shopping Street, the heart of local everyday life. The whole itinerary is flexible: if you want to make better use of your time and visit more attractions, you can move the start time earlier to around 9:00, worship first and then shop, and head to other attractions after lunch. If you are staying in Sugamo, you can shorten the itinerary and make it a half-day trip from 14:00 to 18:00 instead.
Sugamo One-Day Itinerary
10:00 Arrive at Sugamo Station
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10:05 Stroll along Jizo-dori Shopping Street
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10:30 Visit Koganji Temple to worship Togenuki Jizo and the Washing Kannon
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11:30 Visit Sugamo Koshinzuka
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12:00 Walk or take the Toden Arakawa Line
Head to Shabushabu Tatsu Nishi-Sugamo Branch for lunch
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13:30 Return to Sugamo Station to buy additional souvenirs
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14:30 Enjoy strawberry shortcake afternoon tea at French Pound House
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15:30 End the Sugamo itinerary
Sugamo One-Day Trip
Recommended Access: Start from JR Yamanote Line Sugamo Station or Toei Subway Sugamo Station for better itinerary flexibility
Walking Distance: Jizo-dori Shopping Street is about 800 meters long
From Koshinzuka to Shabushabu Tatsu is about 700 meters
Recommended Duration: Around 2 to 5 hours depending on your personal needs and preferences
Key Tips:
▶ Pray for good health at Koganji Temple and for safe travels at Koshinzuka
▶ Shabushabu Tatsu Nishi-Sugamo Branch was featured in Solitary Gourmet and is a must-visit for food lovers; meat lovers may also consider switching to Yakiniku Kongouen
Recommended Accommodation in Sugamo
Compared with major tourist accommodation hotspots such as Shinjuku and Ikebukuro, Sugamo not only has excellent transportation access but also offers relatively reasonable room rates because it is away from the busiest urban areas. In addition, the area around Sugamo is mainly residential, with good public safety, convenient supermarkets, restaurants, and daily-life facilities. It is highly suitable as a base for both short-term and long-term trips to Tokyo.
APA Hotel Sugamo Ekimae
As its name suggests, APA Hotel Sugamo Ekimae is located right in front of Exit A4 of Sugamo Station on the Toei Mita Line. It is a large business hotel with 512 guest rooms. The hotel features a mechanical parking lot, a rooftop open-air public bath, and a varied buffet breakfast, satisfying travelers who want both comfort and affordable high-value accommodation.
Address: 2-9-7 Sugamo, Toshima-ku, Tokyo
Access: Outside Exit A4 of Sugamo Station on the Toei Mita Line
Smile Hotel Sugamo
The well-known chain business hotel Smile Hotel focuses on warm comfort and excellent convenience. It is not only close to Sugamo Station, but also has a convenience store and a 24-hour Seiyu supermarket nearby. Whether you want to buy snacks, late-night food, or daily travel supplies during your stay, it is extremely convenient, and the surrounding living facilities are hard to beat.
Address: 2-4-7 Sugamo, Toshima-ku, Tokyo
Access: Approx. 2-minute walk from Sugamo Station
Flexstay Inn Sugamo
Flexstay Inn Sugamo is an apartment-style hotel. The guest rooms are equipped with simple daily-life facilities such as microwaves, making them highly functional. The hotel is only about a two-minute walk from Koganji Temple, one of Sugamo’s must-visit attractions. It is especially suitable for travelers who need long-term accommodation or prefer a more local, lived-in travel experience.
Address: 3-6-16 Sugamo, Toshima-ku, Tokyo
Access: Approx. 5-minute walk from Sugamo Station
Triphome Sugamo
Triphome Sugamo is a newly opened apartment-style accommodation facility that began operating in October 2024. It features entire private apartment units, with a comfortable and spacious two-bedroom, one-living-room layout, as well as a fully equipped private kitchen, washing machine, and other home-style facilities. It is very suitable for family trips with children or travelers planning a long-term stay in Tokyo.
Address: 1-14-12 Sugamo, Toshima-ku, Tokyo
Access: Approx. 2-minute walk from Sugamo Station
Sugamo preserves a strong Showa-era shitamachi atmosphere, with a sense of old-fashioned style, high-value food worth lining up for, enjoyable shopping streets, and affordable accommodation. If you want to slow down and truly feel Tokyo, arranging a day to explore this lively nostalgic neighborhood is absolutely the right choice!
Sugamo Travel FAQ
1. Is Sugamo worth visiting? Will young people also find it fun?
Sugamo is absolutely worth visiting! Although Sugamo is called “Harajuku for grandmas,” it is definitely not only for seniors. The area has a nostalgic shopping street atmosphere, street food you can enjoy while walking, and temple and shrine worship experiences, making it enjoyable for visitors of all ages. In recent years, it has also attracted many young people and foreign tourists who want to experience the local, old-Tokyo everyday atmosphere. It takes only 3 minutes by train from Ikebukuro to Sugamo, making it a great spot to include in a side-trip itinerary.
2. How long should I stay in Sugamo?
If you only want to stroll along the shopping street, try some food, and briefly visit the local temples and shrines, 2 to 3 hours is enough. If you visit on a lively ennichi day, there will be more stalls, shops, and crowds than usual, so it is better to set aside half a day.
3. Is it crowded on ennichi days? What time should I go?
The ennichi days on the 4th, 14th, and 24th of each month are when Sugamo is most crowded, especially around noon. Travelers are recommended to arrive at around 10:00 in the morning, just as the shops are opening, while also avoiding the peak crowds.
4. Is Sugamo suitable to visit on rainy days?
Sugamo’s Jizo-dori Shopping Street is an open-air shopping street without an arcade roof, so it is recommended to bring rain gear on rainy days. However, many shop entrances have eaves where you can temporarily shelter from the rain, and temples such as Koganji and Shinshoji can still be visited in rainy weather. As long as you prepare rain gear, you can still enjoy the trip.
5. Are there coin lockers near Sugamo Station?
Yes. There are four coin locker areas around Sugamo Station, including near Exit A2 of Toei Mita Line Sugamo Station and both inside and outside the ticket gates of JR Sugamo Station, with around 159 coin lockers in total. Some are large enough for big suitcases. Fees are generally around 300 to 700 yen, and the available usage time is usually from the first train to the last train.